Archive for August, 2010

Song of the post:

I woke up with little butterflies in my stomach, the kind of butterflies that I get when I am about to set off on an exploration.  You see, L. and I had the grand idea that we would rent a buggy, a popular thing to do when in Buzios, and drive from beach to beach.  We were after all on a quest to find our favorite!

Our pousada called the rental company for us and by the time we were finished with our breakfast the buggy had arrived.  We spent about an hour filling out paperwork and once we had signed away our lives the keys were presented to us.  I was the one driving, since L. lives in Buenos Aires and therefore has no need for a driver’s lisence.  As we got into the buggy my excitement turned to dread — our buggy was not an automatic.  Yes, I know, roll your eyes, laugh, but I do not know how to drive a stick shift (it is #44 on my Bucket List to learn how by the way).  L. tried to teach me, though that was an absolute disaster.  After yet another hour, I finally gave up and had to embarrassingly call the rental company to ask for a refund and for them to pick up the buggy, while in the meantime I left it stuck in the middle of the road on a hill.  Not one of my proudest moments!

The difference between tragedy and comedy is a sense of humor (which thankfully both of us have).  As many travelers have learned while on the road:  the worse the experience, the better the story.

Since it was already mid-afternoon, L. and I decided to stay where we were to take advantage of the incredible pool at Casas Brancas and to continue laughing off the unsuccessful morning with some caipirinhas.

Me in my new Brasilian suit!

I know I have done nothing but sing Casas Brancas’ praises for the last several posts, however I simply cannot imagine a more aesthetically pleasing place.

Towards the end of the day the beach along Buzios Bay was calling out to us and we decided to pay it a visit.  It took us about 15 minutes to walk there.

It was not the most beautiful beach I had ever visited, however the calm water was the perfect temperature.  L. and I floated away the time and before we knew it the sun began to set.

And the walk back to our pousada was illuminated by yet another pink sky.

By the time we made it back to our room the moon was now the center of the attention in Buzios.

L. and I were surprisingly tired and decided that we would have a long, leisurely dinner and then buy some cake at a nearyby bakery to take back to enjoy on our terrace.

As we indulged in our desserts under the moonlight, we found it difficult to believe that tomorrow would be our last day in Buzios.  We knew we had to make it special, and special it would definitely be!

Song of the post:

L. and I decided to dine at the restaurant at Casas Brancas.  We had the entire place to ourselves, and while it was definitely romantic, I missed the energy that comes from a crowded restaurant.

L. and I celebrating a fabulous vacation thus far.

After our suburb meal, we took our time walking into town, as it was slightly past midnight and even though we were visiting during off-season, midnight was still too early for the clubs.  Besides the beaches, Buzios is also known for its happening night life all year round.

A view of Buzios sparkling behind me.

Along the way we passed by Brigitte again and could not help but pose for some more pictures with her!

I loved her sense of style and the fact that she was sitting on a suitcase.

L. loved her, well. . .

We stopped in some stores and enjoyed some ice cream to kill more time, and then around 1:30 we decided to go dancing at Pacha.  I have been to Pacha’s all over the world and I am always impressed with the fabulous atmosphere and music, however I doubt there is a Pacha with a better view than the one in Buzios.

Around 4AM, which to L. was still very early since he is Argentine, we returned to our pousada.  As we drifted off to sleep, again with the doors open, we agreed that tomorrow we would rent a buggy and drive from beach to beach.

Song of the post:

The surprise that awaited us at Casas Brancas was truly the most magnificent sunset I have ever seen.  They had promised us the best sunset in Buzios and they definitely delivered!

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm, and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” ~Jawaharial Nehru

My 1st view of the sunset -- trust me my eyes were wide open!

It was as if the sky was on fire.

I am certain that at first I took about 100 photos and then I realized that I was not enjoying this special moment to the fullest and I put my camera down.  I love that photography enables us to capture  moments in time that we never want to forget.  And when I see something that stirs my soul, I cannot help but take photo after photo until I feel like I have a successful shot.  Though lately I am trying my best to find the right balance between capturing moments with my camera and with with my memory.

It was now time to go get ready for our big night out on the town, since it was after all a Friday night in Brasil. . .

Song of the post:

Lucas and I decided to sleep with the door to our terrace open, so that while we slept we could hear the sound of the ocean.  It was one of the most peaceful sleeps in my life to date!  The beds in the suites at Casas Brancas are built on platforms, which allows guests to have a view of Buzios Bay from their bed.  In fact, the following pictures were taken from bed!

The breakfast that is offered at the pousada is included in the room cost and is a buffet of Brasilian delights ranging from tropical fruit to exotic cheeses to local cakes.  My favorite, of course, was the french-press coffee that each couple received with the meal.

 

As previously mentioned, Buzios has over twenty beaches and no matter who you talk to each person is very opinionated on which beach is the best.  Lucas and I wanted to form our own opinion, thus we decided to spend the next four days seeing as many beaches as we could.  That would prove to be the biggest challenge of the trip; deciding which ones to visit!  The first beach we chose was Praia Brava.  Casas Brancas reserved us a sunbed at the ultra-trendy Rocka Beach Lounge and Restaurant.

 

Before heading to the beach, I took a quick stroll in town to look for a new bikini.  I was inspired by the local women to buy a Brasilian bikini (ie: a bikini that showed more skin than I was definitely used to).  I found the perfect one by Betty Sue, though you will have to wait a couple of posts to see the unveiling.

 

It took us about five minutes to get to Praia Brava by taxi.  And as always the case with Brasil, I was definitely impressed with my surroundings!

Me on our sunbed wearing my silk cover-up I bought at a bazaar in Jaipur, India a month before.

Lucas on our sunbed.

Our view of Praia Brava.

It was easy to understand why Rocka is such a popular place — with a picturesque view of the ocean, against a soundtrack of Brazilian bossa nova coming from the bar, and the smell of fresh seafood cooking — it was the perfect setting to spend the day, even a week.

 

Normally, since I am a sun worshipper, my first task at hand is to find the perfect spot to take in the sun, but I was in the mood for some exploration.

Could this be our favorite beach???

After our walk, it was time for our first round of caipirinhas of the day.

Salud!

And then of course some sun bathing.

Several hours and one delicious meal later, we went for yet another walk, this time to the deserted part of the beach where we had even more fun with my camera.

One of my favorite photos from the trip.

I loved how Praia Brava, despite being one of the more developed beaches, still had parts that were unspoiled.

Once the sun began to set, we decided to return to Casas Brancas.  We had wanted to see at least one other beach, however we loved where we were so much that we ended up spending the entire day there.

As if the day were not special enough, we had an incredible surprise awaiting us at Casas Brancas. . .

 

The best way to keep in touch with family and friends while traveling around Brazil is to buy some Brazil Phone Cards.

Well, I wish I could say that we celebrated our 1st day together in some grand fashion (though I know not all beautiful adventures have to be filled with excitement in order to be beautiful), but all we really wanted to do was sunbathe, drink, eat, and drink some more.  We had another 4 days to explore!

I had a lot of positive feedback on an India post where I included some accompanying music to listen to while reading.  Thus, I thought for my Brasil posts I would include a different song with each post, since I am a huge fan of Brasilian music and would love to share some of my favorite songs.  If you are interested in listening, press play below.

According to the staff at Casas Brancas, the ambiance of Buzios once the summer season has come to an end, which is around March, drastically changes.  Honestly, I think it is silly that there are “seasons” in Buzios, since the weather is gorgeous year-round.  Nonetheless, we were enjoying having what felt like the entire city to ourselves.

The intricate landscape and decorative touches of Casas Brancas makes it almost impossible to even want to leave the grounds.  It was also rumored to have the best sunset view and I make it a point whenever I am traveling to not miss a sunset if possible.  L. and I had brought along reading material, however we could not take our eyes away from the dazzling Buzios Bay.  It truly looked like a painting with its perfectly placed fishing boats and islets.

As the sun began to makes its way over the horizon, I decided to try a new drink: a frozen caipirinha.  It was definitely not as good as one on the rocks, although still delicious.

Sunset + Brasil + sexy Argentine + caipirinha = pure, utter bliss!!!

Once our stomachs started to beg for some food, we began to get ready for dinner.  Just like Argetines, Brasilians dine late, so we made a reservation for 11PM at a nearby Italian restaurant, named Satyricon.  Casas Brancas is only a five-minute stroll from the center of town, making it unnecessary for us to ever need a taxi at night.

In the ’60s, a visit to Buzios from the french actress Brigitte Bardot with her Brazilian boyfriend transformed the city overnight from a small fishing village to a dream destiantion.  To thank Ms. Bardot, the city memorialized her by constructing a bronze statue of her sitting on a suitcase.  It is about 10 steps away from Casas Brancas, located along the seaside promenade, otherwise known as Orla Bardot, which winds along the water and guides pedestrians into town.  I, of course, had to pose with the statue!

One more shot!

Satyricon’s location is golden, since it right across the street from the ocean.  To take advantage of the ocean breeze, half of the restaurant is open to the water.  It is highly regarded by many as the best restaurant in Buzios.  Unfortunately, the prices reflect its reputation (expect at least $150USD for 2 people).  The waiter that serviced us was Argentinean and once he discovered that L. was too he generously sent us over a free bottle of wine.  The caprese salad coupled with the basket of complementary focaccia bread would have been enough, however the pasta dish I ordered was so good, I made room for it all.

Me and L. celebrating seeing each other again.

Yes, another caipirinha.

We needed to walk off dinner, so we took a pleasant stroll through the main cobblestone street of Rua das Pedras, which is lined with boutiques, gallaries, bars, and cafes that stay open very late.

A constant soundtrack of bossa nova music seemed to play in the background no matter where we were and along with the lapping of the waves against the seawall and the twinkling of the stars in the nightsky, I was 100% convinced, and still am, that Buzious is the most romantic place on earth.

We could have wandered around all night soaking up the incredibleness of everything, but L. and I were eager to get some rest in order to have lots of energy to search for our favorite beach the next day!

If we truly want to know the secret of soulful travel, we need to believe that there is something sacred waiting to be discovered in virtually every journey. ~Phil Cousineau

Prologue: When I stepped foot for the 1st time exactly 5 years ago in South America I was definitely on a journey for the sacred.  I had just ended a 6 year relationship and while I was healing with each new day, I was ready for my heart to be filled with passion for life again and I knew that traveling would be the exact catalyst I needed.  I sold my engagement ring and bought a ticket to Buenos Aires, Argentina.  Little did I know that not only was I going to fall head over heels in love with the city, but also with a man there.

“Our story”  that took place over the last 5 years is one that deserves to be written about and shared with the world and that is exactly what I intend on doing one day in the form of a romantic travelogue.  For now, I will say there were of course ups and downs, due to the long distance, but our love was strong enough to make it work in the end, as you will see in the upcoming posts. . .

7 months ago I took a life changing solo-trip to Brasil.  Brasil, for me at least, is one of those places where you find yourself pondering selling all of your belongings and moving there immediately to live out the rest of your days.   So, when my Argentine boyfriend (L.) suggested we meet in Brasil only 4 months after that trip, I did not hesitate before saying sim!  The only thing I requested was that we visit a city neither of us had been to before.  We researched the perfect place for our rendezvous and eventually settled on Buzios, a city 2 hours north of Rio de Janeiro.

L. and I wanted this to be a special trip, thus we decided that we would splurge on luxury accommodations.  I asked several of my Brasilian friends for their top choice and every single one said Casas Brancas.  Thankfully, due to it being the off-season they still had a room available for an affordable price, as I was only giving them 2 weeks notice.

As my plane arrived in Rio, I truly felt like I had returned “home.”  My flight arrived earlier than L.’s; I found myself a coffee and waited on the other side of customs for him while soaking up the energy of Brasil.  It had been almost a year since I had seen L., but when I was finally in his arms it felt like we had only been apart for 1 minute.  Casas Brancas sent us a car and before I knew it we were on our way to Paradise.

Buzios has become a playground for Cariocas wanting to escape the urban life of Rio.  It is peninsula with over 20 beaches tucked into its curves and coves.  Some of the beaches are less than a hundred feet wide, while others are more than a mile long — each one offering its own charm.  We intended to explore as many of them as we could over the next 5 days.

As our car pulled up to Casas Brancas I was not sure which sight to marvel at: Buzios or the pousada? I am not being hyberbolic when I say that both are the definition of absolute perfection.

Well listen, do not let me decide for you, come take a look yourself!

Let us get back to that view for a quick second.

There is a sensation that we travelers get, I would liken it to a “traveler’s high,” when we find ourselves in a place that feels so right that the thought of moving is almost painful.  That is exactly what I was feeling while looking out at Buzios.

The other gorgeous view!

Our room was not quite ready, so we continued to wander around the grounds taking pictures, as well as drinking caipirinhas.  Yeah, it was barely 11AM, but when in Brasil, do as the Brasilians do, right?

Our room was #20.

Once we were let into our room, I can promise you it did not disappoint.  Unfortunately, I did not think to take pictures of the room itself, as I was too preoccupied with the view from our private veranda.

We relaxed into our lounge chairs (pictured above) and pondered how we should celebrate our 1st day together. . .

Having traveled the world many times over, I now consider myself a bit of a travel pro.  Especially since if I am not traveling, then I am either planning a trip or dreaming of a trip.  Thus, most of my time, love, and energy is spent on all things travel.  I am always on the lookout for travel sites that can help aid me in any way and recently I discovered a new one via Twitter that I would love to share.

Resort Interviews was created by another fellow traveler, Bruce Alexander, who while vacationing in Octopus Resort in Fiji, conjured up the idea that a website based on video reviews would be the best way for travelers to decide whether or not a resort and its location would be a good fit for them.  So, while he was at the resort he began video taping everything from guests to rooms to activities and as soon as he returned home he started the website.
 

The following is one of the video’s he shot at Octopus Resort and is a great example of what the resort reviews look like:
 

Since the site is only in the beginning stages, there are not many resorts listed as of yet and the ones listed are in the South Pacific/Polynesia area.  But, that will change soon, since I believe this site has a tremendous amount to offer the travel world.
 

Here is a summary of a recent press release by Resort Interviews:

Having a tough time making a decision regarding which resort you should stay at on your next vacation?  Well, Resort Interviews realizes just how important it is that you pick the right accommodation and have made that decision so much simpler, by creating a website centered around video interviews.  The creators of the website strongly believe that while text and photos are helpful, by far videos are the most efficient way of conveying information.  The informative video interviews are with guests and locals, as well as footage of the resort and its surroundings.  Not only does the website offer an invaluable amount of information through the videos, but it also saves you time from having to search numerous websites in order to feel comfortable in making a final decision.  Since going global, Resort Interviews has helped countless people choose the best resort for their needs, ensuring that their holiday was a success!

Another great thing about the website is that it offers a free membership where you have the opportunity to learn about discounts.  You can also post or view other traveler’s videos, photos, and stories of their own travel experiences.
 

Personally, while I think pictures and stories are an invaluable way to convey information, I also think video’s are truly the best platform and I look forward to watching Resort Interviews continue to grow and add more properties to their collection.

You only have a couple of hours left before your 16 hour flight home and you are in search of something, an adventure or an experience of sorts, that will “complete” your extraordinary journey through India.  A lot of the shops are closing since it is getting late and it is so hot you can barely breathe.  What do you do???

Well, I will tell you what I did. . .I got my arms henna’ed!  Not only do I think it looks stunningly beautiful, but I also thought it would be nice to have a reminder once I returned home, albeit a temporary one, of my trip.

I ended up finding an adorable 14 year old girl, who was back in Mumbai on her summer vacation from school.  She had already decided at her young age that she wanted to be an architect.  She said that her dream would cost a lot of money, so during the summers she would offer henna to tourists in order to save for her future higher education.  I recognized myself in her ambitious spirit, as I too knew at 14 what I wanted to do with the rest of my life.

She asked me to tell her some of my favorite things.  I mentioned butterflies, elephants, flowers. . .and the next thing I knew I had flowers all over my arms!  She was definitely a master of her trade; not only was her work absolute perfection, but she did it in less than 15 minutes.  She only charged me $10USD, however I chose to give her more and made her promise me that she would put it towards her education.

Nearby was a pink wall, that I thought would make for a great backdrop, so that I could properly display her work of art.

In this chaotic city, it can be difficult to escape the blaring horns and careening rickshaws, not to mention the hordes of fellow pedestrians.  At sunset though you can head to the seaside promenade, with broad views of the Arabian Sea, in order to find some peace within the chaos.  My friend and I returned for one last look of the Arabian Sea before heading back to our hotel to gather our luggage.  Do you recall that I said I was at first disappointed with it?  Well, my 2nd time left me with a completely different impression.  How could I not be enchanted with a body of water being illuminated by a pink sky?  This is the exotic image that I had conjured in my mind for so many years!

Back at our hotel, while I was waiting for our table to become available in the restaurant, I befriended the owner of the gift shop.  He tried to tempt me to extend my stay in Mumbai.  It was Friday night and he wanted to show me the nightlife of Mumbai.  I needed to return home for work and I did not want to abandon my friend, so I begrudgingly declined.  I must admit, as the plane took off 6 hours late due to a delay, I experienced one of my biggest feelings of regret I have every experienced while traveling.  I should have stayed.

On my long flight back to the States, I had plenty of time to reflect on my 11 glorious days in India.  I knew that I had to return.  The planet is huge and life is short, but my time with India was not over.

Being in India is like stroking a starving tiger; as much as it tests your limits by making you move outside your comfort level, for those moments it allows you to touch it, you know you are blessed, as you have discovered the heights of achievement you are capable of attaining, and you feel immortal.

I woke up with no plan in mind of how I would explore Mumbai or how I would spend my last day in India.  I had a couple of places that I wanted to see, but other than that I was more than happy to let the Arabian Sea winds take me where they wanted to.

Mumbai is my kind of city and I knew it before I even stepped out of my hotel.  The city’s appeal to me, which I am quite certain is a turn-off for most, is the chaos.  It is hot, crowded, noisy. . .and I love it!  Now, I am not saying that I could necessarily live in a place long term that was so chaotic (besides NYC of course), but from time to time I thoroughly enjoy being in the midst of a place with such intense energy.  Mumbai is such a place, plus it has a tropical feel to it, which only adds to its allure.

My friend and I hailed a taxi and asked him to take us to the Gateway of India located on the waterfront.  I was definitely interested in seeing the famed monument, but more importantly I wanted to see the Arabian Sea, since I have a fascination with all things water.

My 1st view of the Gateway of India.

Me happy to be next to the Arabian Sea/sad to be leaving India.

The Arabian Sea used to conjure up such an exotic imagine in my mind when I would hear it being talked about, however in person it sadly did not live up to that image.  Nonetheless, I still got goosebumps staring out at it.

While I have been traveling around the world for years now, I have never, and will never, become jaded.

The Mumbai harbor.

Near to the Gateway of India is the infamous Hotel Taj Mahal.  This prestigious and luxurious hotel is over a century old, but what it is most known for is the terrorist attack it suffered in 2008.  Many people died in the bombing, yet the hotel reopened soon after to honor their lives and India’s resilience.

The Hotel Taj Mahal.

Security across from the Hotel Taj Mahal.

After some more wandering around, we decided to have lunch at Leopold’s Cafe.  Normally, I stay away from tourist traps, but this place at least has a historical significance and is quite an institution in Mumbai.  Across the street from the restaurant, and I am terribly sorry ladies that I have now forgotten the name, exists the most amazing boutique.  I stopped in on a whim and my friend had to tear me away an hour later.  When I return to Mumbai one day in the future, this will be the 1st place I visit.

The inside of Leopold's Cafe.

It was now time to explore one of the most congested and colorful parts of Mumbai: the markets.  There is where you get a real taste of what a city with 17 million people is really like.

My 1st view of the markets.

Again, we had no set plans, and were just intent to observe as much as we could.

On a 105 degree day what is better to cool you down than watermelon?

I asked someone if they knew where I could find some similar earrings to the ones I was wearing (I had purchased them in Jaipur) and instead I was brought to the fruit market.  I think of all the countries I have traveled to, I have had the most “lost in translation” moments in India!

The inside of the fruit market.

Once we had our fill of the market madness, I decided that I needed to have one last beautiful adventure before we left India. . .

When people think of India, a lot of times they instantly think overpopulation and too much pollution (though when I first think of India I think of the amazing smells, sounds, sights, etc).  While this image of India is certainly true, you will not find either along the Kerala Coast.  There you will find, in my humble opinion, probably the gentlest, most idyllic, and socially interesting corner of India.

As we continued to sail along the Alleppey backwaters, we took excitement in the constantly changing views.

Around midday we were fed the most amazingly delicious lunch.  I have been a strict vegetarian for over a decade now, but even I could not resist the fresh, organic fish that they had prepared in a coconut sauce for us.  After the meal, I found a comfortable spot next to the captain where I was able to recover from the feast.

Quite possibly one of the most beautiful Cathedral's in the world.

How could you not fall in love with a place where every single  person you pass by energetically waves to you, like you are their dearest friend!?!

As we neared the end of our boat ride, I made a silent promise to myself to return to Southern India one day.  This part of the world definitely deserved more of my time.

And before I knew it, we were back on the plane headed to the North again.  This time it would be to Mumbai, the last stop on our trip.