Archive for the 'Buzios' Category

From silver-screen stars like Fred Astaire and Brigitte Bardot to rock-stars like Mick Jagger and Madonna, holidays in Rio have always been de rigeur for the international jetset.  The grand art deco hotels of Copacabana have been home to more than their fair share of royalty, financiers, and plain old international playboys over the years.  Today, Rio is recapturing some of that glamor and once again becoming a prime international destination and we look at how you can live it up on your own.

Take a yacht tour of Guanabara Bay

You might not have your own ocean-going luxury yacht, at least not yet, but that need not stop you from enjoying the Rio skyline as if you did!  Holidays in Rio allow you lots of options for taking boat trips out into Guanabara Bay, including aboard some lovely sailing schooners, so you can relax and enjoy drinks from the bar while you feel that warm tropical breeze and the wind in the sails.  You can even stop off at some of the many islands in the bay to enjoy some snorkeling and beach time away from the hoi polloi on Copacabana beach.

Guanabara, Brasil

Make like Bardot in Buzios

To escape from the paparazzi back in France in the 1960′s, a young Brigitte Bardot took a holiday in Rio and up to the Buzios peninsula just north of the city, where she could enjoy some anonymity whilst sunning herself on the dozen or so world-class beaches that surround the small town of Armaçao de Buzios.  Her presence helped turn this small fishing village into one of the most sought after spots on the Brazilian coast, but even today it has retained its charm with small owner-run pousadas providing stylish boutique accommodation to mere mortals like you and me.

The girl from Ipanema

For many years the famous neighbourhood of Copacabana was the trendy spot for holidays in Rio, but these days the more stylish hotels, bars, and restaurants are to be found further west in Ipanema.  More laid back than Copacabana, for many Ipanema sums up what is great about Rio: on the same day you can check out the famous Hippie Market, enjoy lunch at one the city’s best restaurants, go jewellery shopping on Ipanema’s famous Diamond Row, and then finish up watching the sun set at the beach with just a can of beer or a caipirinha from a street vendor.

Take tea at the Palace

No, not that palace, although the Queen has been there!  The Copacabana Palace is the grand dame of Rio hotels, and the white art deco façade is famous throughout Brazil.  Since it first opened its doors in 1923, it has been home to royalty, film stars, and the crème de la crème of international society enjoying their holidays in Brazil.  Even if you cannot afford to stay here yourself, it is worth dropping in for afternoon tea on the terrace so that you can enjoy some of the old-world luxury which has kept the Palace at the top of the Brazil holiday tree throughout the decades.

Supper at Satyricon

If you are looking for something a little more substantial than afternoon tea, then we cannot recommend anywhere more highly than Satyricon in Ipanema.  This classic Italian seafood restaurant is where Madonna eats when she is in town, and it is also one of Ronaldo’s favorites (and that is a guy who likes to eat!).  It is certainly not the cheapest place in town, but for quality it cannot be beat, thus perhaps it is a good place to do a little star-watching on your last night in Rio so you can finish on a high note.

Dan Clarke works for Real Brazil Holidays and cannot wait to get back to Brazil and sink a few caipirinhas at the Azul Marinho while he watches the sun sinking into the ocean.

• Promotion 1:  Buy any classic book, get 50% off a second copy.  Expires 4/18 at midnight.  Use code APRGIFT at checkout.
• Promotion 2:  Get 15% off card orders over $20.  Expires 4/30 at midnight.  Use code APRCARDS at checkout.

Song of the post:

I discovered the above song through the delightful Travelholica blog (written by a Brasilian).  I love the song, but more so I love the video, which depicts a couple who is in love, but are in a long distance relationship.  It could not be more perfect for these Brasil posts I have been writing about.

L. and I leisurely enjoyed our last breakfast at Casas Brancas and posed for a couple of more pictures before departing for Rio de Janeiro.

My first visit to Brasil was a holiday.  This visit was unexpected.  The next visit will be for my honeymoon (oh yeah, I forgot to mention we decided to take our honeymoon in Brasil).  A year ago I would have never imagined that I would be in Brasil 3X in less than 2 years.  I stopped trying to plan my life ages ago, since it has a funny way of changing on you unexpectedly.  And what a ride it has been taking me on and I am certainly excited for this new adventure called marriage!

When I was last in Rio, I stayed at an incredible pousada (I highly recommend it), however I wanted to stay in a different part of the city this time and on a whim chose the Rio 180 Hotel, which was rumored to have the best view, hence their name.  Well, my whim turned out to be quite the fortunate guess, as this hotel not only did have a jaw dropping view of Rio, but it was also jaw droppingly gorgeous (almost rivaling Casas Brancas).  The owner also treated L. and I like royalty and within minutes of us arriving she made sure we had caipirinhas in our hands.  While L. and her chatted about Argentina, I explored the grounds.

My 2 favorite things about our room were, 1) the view from our private terrace:

and 2) the gigantic jacuzzi:

L. and I decided that since we had already spent a lot of time in a car already, that we did not have the desire to take a taxi into the city.  Thus, we ordered some take-away to enjoy on the main terrace.

As we indulged in some pizza, nutella crepes, and more caipirinhas we watched as Rio changed colors in front of our eyes.

Heads up to my readers who live in southeast of the US, in case you did not already know, USAir last December started a new direct route from Charlotte to Rio, and the flight deals are truly something else.  I was able to score a round trip ticket for $400 within 2 weeks of my trip!

Need to escape?  Book your last minute holidays online now with Latedeals!  Quick getaways available to the Canary Islands, Brazil, and many other destinations around the world.

Song of the post:

As with most trips, the time went be way too quickly.  L. and I had most definitely fallen in love with Buzios and had even flirted with the idea of going real estate shopping to get an idea of how much a house would cost us in the future if we were to move there.

For our final meal in Buzios, we chose to dine at the highly recommended French restaurant Cigalon.  And what a great decision we made, because not only was the food superb (so good that we each had our own 4 courses), but it also had to be the most romantic restaurant I have ever dined in–making it the perfect place to celebrate our unforgettable 4 days in Buzios.   Unfortunately, I did not get any pictures of the restaurant, however to imagine the gorgeous setting, picture a lovely candle-lit terrace that has been built next to the sea and overlooks the boats moored for the night.  Of course the waves crashing against the rocks in the distance and the lady singing lovely French ballads inside the restaurant only added to the mystique.

Celebrating our stay in Buzios with champagne!

I believe that most of my readers already know what happened next, especially since I announced it several months ago, but on our walk back to our pousada L. asked me to marry him.  I will not go into specifics as to how he did it, since it was an incredibly special and private moment.  I will say though that even though we have dated for 5 years and have talked extensivly about marriage, I was still surprised, and this girl LOVES surprises!

The newly engaged couple!

And for you ladies who are wondering what my ring looks like, here are 2 photos:

It was not given to me that night, as my man knows I am very selective when it comes to jewelry.  We did later find the most perfect “Andi ring” though.  Never one to follow tradition, I opted to forgo a diamond for an amethyst and pink sapphires. The wedding is currently being planned to take place in Buenos Aires, Argentina for this coming May.  Updates will definitely be ongoing.

While I was terribly sad to be leaving Buzios, I was eager to return to Rio de Janeiro, this time with my fiance!!!

When traveling throughout Brazil, make sure to purchase some Brazil Phone Cards, so that you can stay in contact with your family overseas.

Song of the post:

I woke up with little butterflies in my stomach, the kind of butterflies that I get when I am about to set off on an exploration.  You see, L. and I had the grand idea that we would rent a buggy, a popular thing to do when in Buzios, and drive from beach to beach.  We were after all on a quest to find our favorite!

Our pousada called the rental company for us and by the time we were finished with our breakfast the buggy had arrived.  We spent about an hour filling out paperwork and once we had signed away our lives the keys were presented to us.  I was the one driving, since L. lives in Buenos Aires and therefore has no need for a driver’s lisence.  As we got into the buggy my excitement turned to dread — our buggy was not an automatic.  Yes, I know, roll your eyes, laugh, but I do not know how to drive a stick shift (it is #44 on my Bucket List to learn how by the way).  L. tried to teach me, though that was an absolute disaster.  After yet another hour, I finally gave up and had to embarrassingly call the rental company to ask for a refund and for them to pick up the buggy, while in the meantime I left it stuck in the middle of the road on a hill.  Not one of my proudest moments!

The difference between tragedy and comedy is a sense of humor (which thankfully both of us have).  As many travelers have learned while on the road:  the worse the experience, the better the story.

Since it was already mid-afternoon, L. and I decided to stay where we were to take advantage of the incredible pool at Casas Brancas and to continue laughing off the unsuccessful morning with some caipirinhas.

Me in my new Brasilian suit!

I know I have done nothing but sing Casas Brancas’ praises for the last several posts, however I simply cannot imagine a more aesthetically pleasing place.

Towards the end of the day the beach along Buzios Bay was calling out to us and we decided to pay it a visit.  It took us about 15 minutes to walk there.

It was not the most beautiful beach I had ever visited, however the calm water was the perfect temperature.  L. and I floated away the time and before we knew it the sun began to set.

And the walk back to our pousada was illuminated by yet another pink sky.

By the time we made it back to our room the moon was now the center of the attention in Buzios.

L. and I were surprisingly tired and decided that we would have a long, leisurely dinner and then buy some cake at a nearyby bakery to take back to enjoy on our terrace.

As we indulged in our desserts under the moonlight, we found it difficult to believe that tomorrow would be our last day in Buzios.  We knew we had to make it special, and special it would definitely be!

Song of the post:

L. and I decided to dine at the restaurant at Casas Brancas.  We had the entire place to ourselves, and while it was definitely romantic, I missed the energy that comes from a crowded restaurant.

L. and I celebrating a fabulous vacation thus far.

After our suburb meal, we took our time walking into town, as it was slightly past midnight and even though we were visiting during off-season, midnight was still too early for the clubs.  Besides the beaches, Buzios is also known for its happening night life all year round.

A view of Buzios sparkling behind me.

Along the way we passed by Brigitte again and could not help but pose for some more pictures with her!

I loved her sense of style and the fact that she was sitting on a suitcase.

L. loved her, well. . .

We stopped in some stores and enjoyed some ice cream to kill more time, and then around 1:30 we decided to go dancing at Pacha.  I have been to Pacha’s all over the world and I am always impressed with the fabulous atmosphere and music, however I doubt there is a Pacha with a better view than the one in Buzios.

Around 4AM, which to L. was still very early since he is Argentine, we returned to our pousada.  As we drifted off to sleep, again with the doors open, we agreed that tomorrow we would rent a buggy and drive from beach to beach.

Song of the post:

The surprise that awaited us at Casas Brancas was truly the most magnificent sunset I have ever seen.  They had promised us the best sunset in Buzios and they definitely delivered!

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm, and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” ~Jawaharial Nehru

My 1st view of the sunset -- trust me my eyes were wide open!

It was as if the sky was on fire.

I am certain that at first I took about 100 photos and then I realized that I was not enjoying this special moment to the fullest and I put my camera down.  I love that photography enables us to capture  moments in time that we never want to forget.  And when I see something that stirs my soul, I cannot help but take photo after photo until I feel like I have a successful shot.  Though lately I am trying my best to find the right balance between capturing moments with my camera and with with my memory.

It was now time to go get ready for our big night out on the town, since it was after all a Friday night in Brasil. . .

Song of the post:

Lucas and I decided to sleep with the door to our terrace open, so that while we slept we could hear the sound of the ocean.  It was one of the most peaceful sleeps in my life to date!  The beds in the suites at Casas Brancas are built on platforms, which allows guests to have a view of Buzios Bay from their bed.  In fact, the following pictures were taken from bed!

The breakfast that is offered at the pousada is included in the room cost and is a buffet of Brasilian delights ranging from tropical fruit to exotic cheeses to local cakes.  My favorite, of course, was the french-press coffee that each couple received with the meal.

 

As previously mentioned, Buzios has over twenty beaches and no matter who you talk to each person is very opinionated on which beach is the best.  Lucas and I wanted to form our own opinion, thus we decided to spend the next four days seeing as many beaches as we could.  That would prove to be the biggest challenge of the trip; deciding which ones to visit!  The first beach we chose was Praia Brava.  Casas Brancas reserved us a sunbed at the ultra-trendy Rocka Beach Lounge and Restaurant.

 

Before heading to the beach, I took a quick stroll in town to look for a new bikini.  I was inspired by the local women to buy a Brasilian bikini (ie: a bikini that showed more skin than I was definitely used to).  I found the perfect one by Betty Sue, though you will have to wait a couple of posts to see the unveiling.

 

It took us about five minutes to get to Praia Brava by taxi.  And as always the case with Brasil, I was definitely impressed with my surroundings!

Me on our sunbed wearing my silk cover-up I bought at a bazaar in Jaipur, India a month before.

Lucas on our sunbed.

Our view of Praia Brava.

It was easy to understand why Rocka is such a popular place — with a picturesque view of the ocean, against a soundtrack of Brazilian bossa nova coming from the bar, and the smell of fresh seafood cooking — it was the perfect setting to spend the day, even a week.

 

Normally, since I am a sun worshipper, my first task at hand is to find the perfect spot to take in the sun, but I was in the mood for some exploration.

Could this be our favorite beach???

After our walk, it was time for our first round of caipirinhas of the day.

Salud!

And then of course some sun bathing.

Several hours and one delicious meal later, we went for yet another walk, this time to the deserted part of the beach where we had even more fun with my camera.

One of my favorite photos from the trip.

I loved how Praia Brava, despite being one of the more developed beaches, still had parts that were unspoiled.

Once the sun began to set, we decided to return to Casas Brancas.  We had wanted to see at least one other beach, however we loved where we were so much that we ended up spending the entire day there.

As if the day were not special enough, we had an incredible surprise awaiting us at Casas Brancas. . .

 

The best way to keep in touch with family and friends while traveling around Brazil is to buy some Brazil Phone Cards.

Well, I wish I could say that we celebrated our 1st day together in some grand fashion (though I know not all beautiful adventures have to be filled with excitement in order to be beautiful), but all we really wanted to do was sunbathe, drink, eat, and drink some more.  We had another 4 days to explore!

I had a lot of positive feedback on an India post where I included some accompanying music to listen to while reading.  Thus, I thought for my Brasil posts I would include a different song with each post, since I am a huge fan of Brasilian music and would love to share some of my favorite songs.  If you are interested in listening, press play below.

According to the staff at Casas Brancas, the ambiance of Buzios once the summer season has come to an end, which is around March, drastically changes.  Honestly, I think it is silly that there are “seasons” in Buzios, since the weather is gorgeous year-round.  Nonetheless, we were enjoying having what felt like the entire city to ourselves.

The intricate landscape and decorative touches of Casas Brancas makes it almost impossible to even want to leave the grounds.  It was also rumored to have the best sunset view and I make it a point whenever I am traveling to not miss a sunset if possible.  L. and I had brought along reading material, however we could not take our eyes away from the dazzling Buzios Bay.  It truly looked like a painting with its perfectly placed fishing boats and islets.

As the sun began to makes its way over the horizon, I decided to try a new drink: a frozen caipirinha.  It was definitely not as good as one on the rocks, although still delicious.

Sunset + Brasil + sexy Argentine + caipirinha = pure, utter bliss!!!

Once our stomachs started to beg for some food, we began to get ready for dinner.  Just like Argetines, Brasilians dine late, so we made a reservation for 11PM at a nearby Italian restaurant, named Satyricon.  Casas Brancas is only a five-minute stroll from the center of town, making it unnecessary for us to ever need a taxi at night.

In the ’60s, a visit to Buzios from the french actress Brigitte Bardot with her Brazilian boyfriend transformed the city overnight from a small fishing village to a dream destiantion.  To thank Ms. Bardot, the city memorialized her by constructing a bronze statue of her sitting on a suitcase.  It is about 10 steps away from Casas Brancas, located along the seaside promenade, otherwise known as Orla Bardot, which winds along the water and guides pedestrians into town.  I, of course, had to pose with the statue!

One more shot!

Satyricon’s location is golden, since it right across the street from the ocean.  To take advantage of the ocean breeze, half of the restaurant is open to the water.  It is highly regarded by many as the best restaurant in Buzios.  Unfortunately, the prices reflect its reputation (expect at least $150USD for 2 people).  The waiter that serviced us was Argentinean and once he discovered that L. was too he generously sent us over a free bottle of Italian wine.  The caprese salad coupled with the basket of complementary focaccia bread would have been enough, however the pasta dish I ordered was so good, I made room for it all.

Me and L. celebrating seeing each other again.

Yes, another caipirinha.

We needed to walk off dinner, so we took a pleasant stroll through the main cobblestone street of Rua das Pedras, which is lined with boutiques, gallaries, bars, and cafes that stay open very late.

A constant soundtrack of bossa nova music seemed to play in the background no matter where we were and along with the lapping of the waves against the seawall and the twinkling of the stars in the nightsky, I was 100% convinced, and still am, that Buzious is the most romantic place on earth.

We could have wandered around all night soaking up the incredibleness of everything, but L. and I were eager to get some rest in order to have lots of energy to search for our favorite beach the next day!

If we truly want to know the secret of soulful travel, we need to believe that there is something sacred waiting to be discovered in virtually every journey. ~Phil Cousineau

Prologue: When I stepped foot for the 1st time exactly 5 years ago in South America I was definitely on a journey for the sacred.  I had just ended a 6 year relationship and while I was healing with each new day, I was ready for my heart to be filled with passion for life again and I knew that traveling would be the exact catalyst I needed.  I sold my engagement ring and bought a ticket to Buenos Aires, Argentina.  Little did I know that not only was I going to fall head over heels in love with the city, but also with a man there.

“Our story”  that took place over the last 5 years is one that deserves to be written about and shared with the world and that is exactly what I intend on doing one day in the form of a romantic travelogue.  For now, I will say there were of course ups and downs, due to the long distance, but our love was strong enough to make it work in the end, as you will see in the upcoming posts. . .

7 months ago I took a life changing solo-trip to Brasil.  Brasil, for me at least, is one of those places where you find yourself pondering selling all of your belongings and moving there immediately to live out the rest of your days.   So, when my Argentine boyfriend (L.) suggested we meet in Brasil only 4 months after that trip, I did not hesitate before saying sim!  The only thing I requested was that we visit a city neither of us had been to before.  We researched the perfect place for our rendezvous and eventually settled on Buzios, a city 2 hours north of Rio de Janeiro.

L. and I wanted this to be a special trip, thus we decided that we would splurge on luxury accommodations.  I asked several of my Brasilian friends for their top choice and every single one said Casas Brancas.  Thankfully, due to it being the off-season they still had a room available for an affordable price, as I was only giving them 2 weeks notice.

As my plane arrived in Rio, I truly felt like I had returned “home.”  My flight arrived earlier than L.’s; I found myself a coffee and waited on the other side of customs for him while soaking up the energy of Brasil.  It had been almost a year since I had seen L., but when I was finally in his arms it felt like we had only been apart for 1 minute.  Casas Brancas sent us a car and before I knew it we were on our way to Paradise.

Buzios has become a playground for Cariocas wanting to escape the urban life of Rio.  It is peninsula with over 20 beaches tucked into its curves and coves.  Some of the beaches are less than a hundred feet wide, while others are more than a mile long — each one offering its own charm.  We intended to explore as many of them as we could over the next 5 days.

As our car pulled up to Casas Brancas I was not sure which sight to marvel at: Buzios or the pousada? I am not being hyberbolic when I say that both are the definition of absolute perfection.

Well listen, do not let me decide for you, come take a look yourself!

Let us get back to that view for a quick second.

There is a sensation that we travelers get, I would liken it to a “traveler’s high,” when we find ourselves in a place that feels so right that the thought of moving is almost painful.  That is exactly what I was feeling while looking out at Buzios.

The other gorgeous view!

Our room was not quite ready, so we continued to wander around the grounds taking pictures, as well as drinking caipirinhas.  Yeah, it was barely 11AM, but when in Brasil, do as the Brasilians do, right?

Our room was #20.

Once we were let into our room, I can promise you it did not disappoint.  Unfortunately, I did not think to take pictures of the room itself, as I was too preoccupied with the view from our private veranda.

We relaxed into our lounge chairs (pictured above) and pondered how we should celebrate our 1st day together. . .